

A raspberry pi zero with a camera connected to your local network. And powered by a small solar charged battery. Put it in a clear a plastic contaner for weatherproofing
From what Ive seen in arguments about this, Plex generally is more accessible with QoL and easier to understand interface for non-techie people to share with family/friends. Something thats hard for nerdy people to understand is that average people are perfectly fine paying for digital goods and services. An older well off normie has far more money than sense and will happily pay premiums just to not have to rub two braincells together with setup or for a nicer quality of experience. If you figure out how to make a very useful plug-an-play service that works without the end user of average intelligence/domain knowledge stressing about how to set up, maintain, and navigate confusing layouts, you’ve created digital gold.
This isn’t the fault of open source services you can only expect so much polish from non-profit voulenteer. Its just the nature of consumer laziness/expectation for professional product standards and the path/product of least resistance.
You are so cool! Thanks!! :) I don’t want to bother you with more questions, the following is more me just talking and thinking to myself. I hope you have an excellent rest of your day.
Another calculator I was recommended called pc part picker shows an approximate draw of 334W with my current desktop build. with the rx 560. newegg was saying around 600w would be good PSU range with curren but my current PSU in it came with is only rated at 450 so IDK. Adding 115W on top of that is my estimated difference between p100 max draw and rx550 running . The 1070ti I have in other desktop has an expected draw of 150W. Adding that on would probably be on the 800w side?.
Theoretically my current 450w PSU could handle p100 maybe but 50w overhead is slim. guesstimated around 500-600watts, IDK I think 750 will be fine
The nvidia provided manual shows this kind of adapter connection to power the tesla as an option
Im just not sure if each of those pcie females on the adapter cable need their own connection to the power supply? I decided it might be worth a little more spend a little more on a name brand corsair that offers three of those pcie/cpu jacks. So does one outlet on the PSU go to CPU, another to the first female of that adapter, and the third slot to the second female of that adapter?
I saw that this PSU gives two different 6+2 pcie outputting cords, I don’t know what makes the 12v-2x6 to dual split cable different from the regular PCIE. Can I use that splitter cable to reduce the amount of PSU slots used to one cable?
“I don’t need it. I definitely do not need it. I… don’t need it…”
Im going to clean the case. A few fingerprint smudges and a “smokeydope wuz here” drawn in should be enough dust removed
In all seriousness yep I plan to give it a real cleaning.
Gotcha! Thank you I thought it was wierd that there werent big blower motors fans and instead a heatsink. Ill make sure to set it up in the coldest part of the house and rig up a few more fans for much better airflow throughout the computer case.
Thank you for all your help remotelove you are awesome!! Here’s a better shot of the space I’m working with. (Please dont yell at me about the dust its why I was heasitant to show I know how it looks lol)
I don’t think space/length of cardwill be an issue. While I still have your attention I wanted to ask. In as simple an explanation as you can muster, what do I need to connect multiple GPUs to one motherboard? I don’t quite understand how pcie lanes and bridges and all that work but from what I read its possible and you can use different manufactuer GPUs together for the case I’m doing. But how?? Theres only one slot. I know some boards have 2 or even 4 but theres homlabs with like 10 p100s chained together
I wanted to get an nvidia p100 Tesla 16gb for cheap vram and compute on a headless server. Some of the cards on eBay have the “full length” big bracket plate and some are ripped off because some PCs have a shorter plate system. I just want o make sure I don’t have any problems but it looks like a full size jut wanted some confirmation. I don’t know what a DIMMS is but if you mean the ram sticks, yes. I didnt know much about PCs when I installed them just kept putting them in for some reason installing a fourth made the system not run. I’ll have to figure that situation out sometime.
Honestly them throwing in a few boost/moisture packs into the bag before sealing make a huge difference.
I volunteer as developer for a decade old open source project. A sizable amount of my contribution is just cooking up decent documentation or re-writting old doc from the original module authors written close to a decade ago because it failed me information wise when I needed it. Programmers as it turns out are very ‘eh, the code should explain itself to anyone with enough brains to look at it’ type of people so lost in the sauce of being hyperfluent tech nerds instantly understanding all variables, functions, parameters, and syntax at very first glance at source code, that they forgot the need for re-translation into regular human speak for people of varying intelligence/skill levels who can barely navigate the command line.
Honestly I feel like we may have spoken before about it! I remember talking to someone a few months ago here on lemmy about how they loved hitting the orb without the mouthpiece while vaping which inspired me to try it out. For sure got some nice airflow that way thanks for the suggestion helps mix things up :)
I had the smoked 18mm v1 without the base but it dropped and broke pretty quick. Thats the one thing about the orbs no matter who you buy from they all seem to be the same cheap thin china glass that will shatter easy. But dammit its cheap enough and I love the fourm factor, so decided to get the clear 14mm v3 with that proper glass base next. The joints being smaller isn’t that noticable airflow wise all my vapes are 14mm so its nice to not fuck around with an extra 18/14mm conversion slider. My only fustration is no ice catcher and crushing up ice to pour in is a bitch, need to figure something out.
That lantern design is pretty rad visually NGL! Sweet water pipe, if you pick it up hope you enjoy the hell out of it. Good luck cleaning though especially if tar gets crusted in or around under that flame.
Im more of a scientific glass person. I have a soft spot for fumed/uv reactive glass and honeycomb bubbles though. Instead my ideal pieces to be easily visibly inspectable for gunk, easily cleaned to be absolutely flavor neutral, and functional with the ability to swap mouthpieces/hoses or do multiple sliders/vapes at once per hit. The Orb/globe is pretty much my ideal form factor, you cant get much easier to clean than a sphere with some glass joints and a perc.
I imagine they sit mostly as art display pieces on a table somewhere, only to be busted out once in a while for special occasions. Probably gets shelved about the time the honeymoon period wears off and the buyer realizes how much of a bitch it is to clean nasty tar out of complicated glass with intricate inside areas no brush can reach.
Every decent glass shop has a few of them, overly intricate artsy pieces with pop culture reference/decorative symbology or fumed/uv activated glass that cost many thousands of dollars. Just to do what a cheap china glass scientific bong or dab rig with a perc can. They tend to sit for years especially when the economy aint doing hot. I guess every now and again someone with more money than sense falls in love with a piece of art and makes a down payment/has the play money. No accounting for taste.
At least in a glass shop you can visibly inspect it and get the vibes of the object. If im paying 7k for a piece of glass (lol no) I damn well better be able to inspect it for imperfections, chips, cracks, ect.
True! Most browsers don’t have native gemini protocol support. However a web proxy like the ones I shared allow you to get gemini support no matter the web browser. Gemtext is a simplified version of markdown which means its not too hard to convert from gemtext to html/webpage. So, by scraping information from bloated websites, formatting it into the simple gemtext format markdown, then mirroring it back as a simple web/html page, it works together nicely to re-render bloated sites on simple devices using gemini as a formatting medium technology. You don’t really need to understand gemini protocol to use newswaffle + portal.mozz.us proxy in your regular web browser
“I use Arch bt-”
“ITS SHiTE!”
“…excuse me?”
" YOUR BLOODY ROLLING RELEASE DISTRO IS FUCKING RAW. HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU RECOOKED IT AFTER A DEPENDENCY PACKAGE BROKE?"
“B-bhut chef… Its a rolling release bleeding distro that expects users to compile with the help of a wik-”
“I ASKED HOW MANY TIMES YOU HAD TO RECOMPILE IT THIS YEAR YOU FUCKING DONKEY”
“5 times sir.”
“FIVE FUCKING TIMES??? JESUS CHRIST DID I ASK FOR CONSTANT MAINTENANCE WITH A SIDE OF COMPUTER PROGRAMS IN BETWEEN? IF I WANTED A RAW OPERATING SYSTEM I WOULD HAVE BECOME A FLAGSMAN INSTEAD OF A CHEF AND ASKED FOR A DISH OF “GENTOO”. COOK ME A REAL OPERATING SYSTEM.”
Sorry to hear your step back into the vape journey isnt starting off hot. Everyone is different some people are into vapes some prefer to stick with combustion that’s why I try to recommend cheaper vapes when people ask so they aren’t out hundreds of $ if its not for them.
For me vaping its a creeping high. The more you sesh back to back the more you feel it in the eyes and the relaxation. Instead of one or two bowls sesh it out over an hour and like six bowls to see how it creeps. Setting also matters a lot. I find that walking or basking in sunlight and bird watching in early morning really adds to the meditative relaxing affects compared to sitting in a room.
Theres a general consensus that a low temp vape sesh hits different than high temp One Hit Extraction sessions. Turn your vaporizer up to its highest setting or around 420-430f and see if that hits and different than seshing around 380f. Does your abv look light brown or pitch black? Thats how you know.
I’m hesitant to recommend another vape since your first few havent worked out. If you still interested, maybe try a dynavap next. With a torch or IH you can ride the line between ABV and ash to get the most combustion-like vapor possible without actually smoking. If a back to back OHE sesh with a dynavap tip turning your bud pitch black in one breath is still not doing much for you, I dont think much will. At least you can use it like a fancy combustion dugout. The dynavaps are a big improvement over fake cigarette dugout pipes even if you just want to smoke out of them.
Keep in mind the high you get from smoking is different because of the carcinogens and carbon dioxide inhalation. You can get similar affects holding in your breath and depriving yourself of oxygen. Dry herb vapor evaporates the terps and all the cannabanoid/hash oil in the plant while leaving all the plant matter carbon behind. Do you get similar heady highs from dabbing concentrate too? Its basically the same difference on a micro level.
Industrial hemp farms sells cbd/cbg/cbn isolate powder which is essentially diamonds in crushed up powder form as well as cbd shatter dabs. The wand can do dabs fine but the problem is stock cups and carb it comes with sucks. You need a dynavap or similar herb chamber and vape wool/Japanese cotton to get it working reliably.
It all depends on if you can control the temp. All powerful desktops and ball vapes can all combust if you set temps too high, the eq can go up to 500f easy. sometimes high temps are good for concentrate. For flower its up to user to dial in and stay within reasonable limits (395-420f) if you push that its on you.
If you wnt a terp chaser that never combust even on highest temp the arizer portables is where its at.
Sure im happy to help you out.
Arizer vtower is a good budget desktop vape similar in form to volcano though obviously not comparable beyond basic shape and some functions. You can get it on sale around 90$USD. Go a little more for arizer EQs to get blower motor for balloons, kind of gimmicky in my experience.
Dynavap is a non-electronic dry herb vape with good entry level options. Their cheapest model is 40$. You can heat it with lighter, torch, or induction heater. The all metal ones will probably last you a lifetime.
Vaphit is Chinese knockoff dynavap you can get from vape sellers like vgoodiez. They make cheap all glass stuff heated with torch and a knockoff metal m for like 20-30$.